Comments on: Slings ‘n Physics http://www.sierradescents.com/climbing/2010/07/13/sling-drop-test.html Climb Up and Ski Down Fri, 10 Feb 2012 18:42:16 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: Xavier "boing boing" McGillicutty http://www.sierradescents.com/climbing/2010/07/13/sling-drop-test.html/comment-page-1#comment-1288 Xavier "boing boing" McGillicutty Thu, 15 Jul 2010 13:47:29 +0000 http://www.sierradescents.com/?p=1816#comment-1288 I don't think you can criticise DMM too much for how the tests themselves were conducted. They determined the properties of the two slings in a rigorous, quantifiable manner, which you can't fault them for. But I agree it's incorrect to assume a falling climber would generate these types of loads. The real lesson here is"elasticity = good". The followup test I'd like to see would be one that determines the peak loads generated by a falling Mythbuster-style mannequin compared to those of DMM's steel block. (All this said, the inelastic nature of that Dyneema sling is pretty scary. I'm not a climber, but if I were, I think I'd stick with the nylon. I like my falls to be nice and squishy... preferably onto a good couch.) I don’t think you can criticise DMM too much for how the tests themselves were conducted. They determined the properties of the two slings in a rigorous, quantifiable manner, which you can’t fault them for.

But I agree it’s incorrect to assume a falling climber would generate these types of loads. The real lesson here is”elasticity = good”. The followup test I’d like to see would be one that determines the peak loads generated by a falling Mythbuster-style mannequin compared to those of DMM’s steel block.

(All this said, the inelastic nature of that Dyneema sling is pretty scary. I’m not a climber, but if I were, I think I’d stick with the nylon. I like my falls to be nice and squishy… preferably onto a good couch.)

]]>