Gear Review

Stubai Ultralight Universal

1. surprisingly durable
2. long, effective teeth
3. light
4. most versatile boot fit

The big question with the all-aluminum Stubai Ultralight Universal crampons is, what are they good for?

For a ten-point crampon, they're obviously light (590 grams) thanks to their aluminum design, which raises concerns of durability right from the start.

Give people lighter gear, though, and they tend to use it, even if it requires compromises and adjustments. The sheer payoff of reduced ounces is impossible to ignore.

Obviously, an aluminum crampon isn't appropriate for all situations. Hardcore mixed climbing (snow and rock) and technical ice still demand steel.

The Ultralight Universal seems particularly suitable, however, for the needs of the ski mountaineer, who presumably won't be spending much time on either ice or rock, since neither makes for a particularly good ski descent.

That said, you never know when you'll find yourself scrambling up ice or rock in the backcountry.

Sometimes you decide to go off route, sometimes you encounter unexpected conditions, and sometimes you just plain get lost.

I myself have done a little scampering over rock wearing these crampons, and I've been pleasantly surprised by their durability.

A nice fringe benefit of the Stubai Ultralight are its rounded aluminum points, which are much less sharp than steel. You won't be constantly tearing holes in your gear or yourself with these crampons. In fact, I don't even bother to put protection on the tips; I just put them point-to-point, wind the straps around, and toss them in a cordura stuff sack.

I am a light climber, at around 160 pounds, gear included, which probably extends the useful range of the Ultralight Universal crampons for me. Heavier climbers should expect to fare worse, in terms of durability, when traveling on rock or ice. Then again, heavier climbers have little need to shave ounces and can easily wear steel instead.

While newer, lighter aluminum crampons are now available, the Stubai remains one of my favorites thanks to its long, broad points, which make this a better crampon for French Technique (flat-footing), as well as less vulnerable to icing/balling of snow underfoot.

Additionally, the Stubai seems to do a better job staying on a variety of boot shapes, thanks to the flexible plastic used at the toe and heel attachment points (unlike the more rigid Zytel of other models).

Snowboarders, in particular, with their softer boots, may find the Stubai Ultralight Universal a better choice when it comes to getting a secure fit.

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