Gear Review

Arcteryx R320

‘Warp’ technology
sport/trad performance
sleek & comfortable
11.4 ounces

If you don't mind paying a little extra, take a close look at Arcteryx's innovative Warp Technology R320 climbing harness.

The R320 is a remarkable all-around performer, offering enough comfort for sport climbing, enough features and durability for trad, and a low 11.3 ounce weight (men's small, measured) that even makes it appealing as an Alpine harness.

Climbing in the R320

Arcteryx has collected a gaggle of awards for the R320, including Popular Science Magazine's Best of What’s New 2007 in the recreation category, for the harness's Warp Strength Technology. The 'Warp' design creates a wildly light, comfortable, and strong support system.

How?

By spreading the harness fabric's longitudinal fibers (removing the vertical ones altogether) and holding them in place with 11 layers of glue, fabric and mesh. The result distributes the climber's weight over a much larger surface area, for vastly improved comfort.

To truly appreciate what this all means, it's best to buckle in to an R320 and try hanging in it. The R320 is not just acceptable here—it outshines many heavily padded sport climbing harness. Best of all, the R320 has a remarkably slim profile. It is not bulky, intrusive, or likely to snag. Wearing this sleek, light design, you may not even notice it's there. Climbers who frequent off-width cracks and chimneys will rave about it.

Despite its low weight, the R320's feature set is not Spartan. You get four asymmetrical, reversible gear loops (to hang gear in the direction you prefer). There is a haul loop on the back, and a welcome belay loop on the front. Leg loops are "warped" for comfort. Note that these do not have quick release buckles, and are not sizeable (a potential issue for winter mountaineers). The leg loops are elasticized to keep them snug but not tight around your legs.

On the comfort front, be aware that the 'Warp' concept results in flatter, stiffer support straps with relatively hard edges. While there is no question this makes the harness comfortable for supporting your weight, if you climb in hot weather or otherwise aren't wearing a lot of clothing between yourself and the harness straps, the harness fabric does not breathe at all, and the waist belt's edges can start to bite into bare skin.

The R320 has a self-locking buckle, to eliminate the dire possibility of forgetting to double-back the loop. A discretely-placed loop keeps the waist strap's loose end stowed nice and tidy while you're climbing. Given how thin the harness is, you may have questions about durability. Arcteryx has used high-end Schoeller™ Dynamic fabric to cover potential wear zones, adding considerable protection against abrasion damage. Additionally, orange wear indicators are sewn-in throughout to let you know when it's time to retire the harness.

» Bottom Line: Innovative, versatile, and light — recommended

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