The Hotlum-Wintun Ridge — Page 2

From left, the Wintun Glacier; the Hotlum-Wintun Ridge—with its characteristic triangular-shaped snowfield (in shadow); and the Hotlum Headwall and Glacier. Skiers typically ascend via the snowfield, then traverse to the upper Wintun Glacier.

Scouting the Ridge

1. Soul Skier's Paradise
2. Scouting the Ridge
3. Dawn Patrol
4. A Race to the Summit
5. Descent

For late July, the snow appeared to be in good shape, with relatively little sun-cupping. Earlier in the season, the Brewer Creek drainage would be completely snow covered.

Now, however, I would have to ascend along the north side of the drainage, which still held several long, continuous fingers of snow that soon connected to the upper slopes.

The traditional route ascends the obvious ridge between the two glaciers.

Around 12,000 feet, where the ridge steepens noticeably, skiers traverse left beneath two obvious rock buttresses, onto the Wintun glacier's upper snow pack, which leads to the summit.

On closer inspection, however, I noticed several significant wet slides on the upper part of the Wintun snow pack.

Moreover, I noticed a narrow finger of snow on the ridge proper which seemed to go almost all the way to the summit.

The snow appeared to be smoother there, as well as steeper and generally more interesting.

I decided I would alter the traditional route a bit, remaining on the Hotlum-Wintun ridge, following the snow finger as far up as it would go.

It looked like I would be forced to hike over a short section of talus near the top, but I hoped that would be at most a minor inconvenience.

Shasta's reputation can be intimidating.

In fact, I myself had avoided skiing or even climbing the peak because, frankly, I was a little scared of it.

Mt. Shasta is famous for its ill-tempered weather. The mountain stands barely 60 miles from the Pacific Ocean, putting it squarely in the sights of the Pacific storm track.

Any time of year, Shasta can form a menacing lenticular cloud, blanketing the summit in a white-out, assaulting would-be climbers with savage winds, blinding snows, and zero visibility. This is also a mountain whose entire south face is aptly named, 'Avalanche Gulch'.

Shasta thus demands a large measure of respect.

The Hotlum-Wintun route, however, avoids a few of Shasta's perils by remaining principally on the ridge line, (one must still be on the lookout for smaller separations within the permanent snow pack), making it perhaps one of the safest lines to the summit.

The route itself is also quite straightforward: simply follow the ridge line up, with a minor traverse at the top onto the Wintun Glacier's upper snowfield. The ridge's exposed vantage point thus offers outstanding views of the bordering Hotlum and Wintun Glaciers—and their crevasses, seracs, and ice falls, all of which remain safely out of reach.

I spent a long afternoon wandering the rolling hills beneath that impressive ridge line, pondering past, present, and future, until at last the sun finally set. Then I retired to my camp, eager to begin tomorrow's ascent.

NEXT: Dawn Patrol »